Garden Dilemmas, Delights & Discoveries, Ask Mary Stone, New Jersey Garden blog

Root Pruning

Mary Stone, Garden Dilemmas, Ask Mary Stone,Gardening tips, Garden Blogs, Stone Associates Landscape Design, Garden Blog,Northern New Jersey Landscape Designer, Early Spring Trasnplants, Root Pruning

Hello Fellow Readers,

Last week we spoke about Early Spring Transplants and the question of root pruning came up from Brian of Stone Church PA. Great question Brian. Transplanting is always stressful for plants especially for the feeder roots; those most responsible for bringing nutrients and water to the plant. By pruning roots in advance of a transplant, you’ll markedly help reduce transplant shock. And, you’ll improve survival rates by encouraging the plant to produce new feeder roots within the future root ball to be moved.

One technique is called spading – ideal for smaller trees and shrubs and those not in their current location for more than a few years. Using a sharp spade, cut a circle around the plant as deep as the depth of the spade and just inside the intended root ball. Recall from last week’s column a basic rule of thumb for the proper size of a root ball is eight to twelve inches from the trunk for each inch of the caliper of the tree (the width of the trunk at chest height). So, a two-inch caliper tree should have a sixteen to twenty-four-inch-wide and deep root ball.

Mary Stone, Garden Dilemmas, Ask Mary Stone,Gardening tips, Garden Blogs, Stone Associates Landscape Design, Garden Blog,Northern New Jersey Landscape Designer, Early Spring Trasnplants, Root Pruning

Using a sharp spade (yes this is a shovel. not ideal) cut a circle around the plant just inside the intended root ball.

Root pruning should be done several months to a year prior to transplanting, and more than a year prior for mature trees. Ideally, it should be done in the fall for spring transplants. That way the shrub or tree can put energy into new feeder roots over winter without the stress of supporting new plant growth. For plants best transplanted in fall, root pruning in spring can work if you keep the soil moist during the entire growing season. Personally, though, I’d prefer you hold off until fall to root prune and move the plant the following fall to lessen the risk of plant stress. Call me cautious…

The same timing protocol goes for the trenching method. Digging a trench around a tree is better than the spade technique for mature trees. In fact, for older established trees, spacing out the trenching is wise; say halfway around then dig further around later in the season. The trench should be twelve inches wide and twelve inches deep or more for larger trees. Again, dig the trench just inside the intended root ball. Fill the trench with two-parts topsoil mixed with one-part compost to provide a cushy environment for the new feeder roots. Keeping the soil moist is critical for success —Deeply water each time the soil is dry two or three inches below the surface. Before you dig out the transplant, check for a thick web of fibrous feeder roots. If they are scarce, give the baby roots more time.

Brian shared his technique of using thick cardboard or a tarp to move a transplant quickly to its already dug new location. That way you can forgo a burlap wrap. No lingering with your roots exposed to the drying elements though. Get her in the ground! Garden Dilemmas? AskMaryStone@gmail.com

 

Mary Stone, owner of Stone Associates Landscape Design & Consulting. As a Landscape Designer, I am grateful for the joy of helping others beautify their surroundings which often leads to sharing encouragement and life experiences. These relationships inspired my weekly column published in THE PRESS, 'Garden Dilemmas? Ask Mary', began in 2012. I dream of growing the evolving community of readers into an interactive forum to share encouragement and support in Garden and Personal Recoveries - seeking nature’s inspirations, stimulating growth, weeding undesirables, embracing the unexpected. Thank you for visiting! Mary

Leave a Reply

*

captcha *